- About
Banteay Chhmar is located in the north west of Cambodia, 160km from Siem Reap. At the time of writing, access roads from Sisophon and Anlong Veng are good. Some tour operators are offering this as a day trip. In my opinion is it’s better to over night here as tempeling in the mid day heat is not fun. There are other temples in the region worth visiting, namley Banteay Toap, with it’s tall tower and the border temple Prasat Ta Krabei. At the latter, it’s common to find both Khmer and Thai soldiers chatting, an interesting set up.
- Accommodation
The Banteay Chhmar CBT Homestay Program offers a range of facilities from budget home stays to reasonable guest houses. They can also provide food, often cooked at their office for all visiting tourists to share. If you are lucky they may put on a small local performance for you.
- Similarities with Angkor
There are many aspects of Banteay Chhmar that mirror that found in the main Angkor park. Galleries, reliefs, baray’s, lilies, the list goes on. What it does lack is both tourism and repair, both aspects add to it’s appeal. In recent years a walkway has been constructed allowing tourists to get close up to the giant faces within the main structure. Contrary to most walkways through tourist sights, I believe this adds to the temples appeal.
- Famed
Banteay Chhmar is well known for the multi-armed, multi-headed Avalokiteshvara at the Western gallery. Two remain, apparently there were eight in this complex. There was an attempt to steal a section for wall with one of these carvings. This section is now in Phnom Penh museum.
- satellite temples
Each cardinal direction has satellite temples, often overlooked in favour of the main complex. These are unique in that they are unrestored, in varying state of repair. For the most the satellite temples are un guarded, they almost seem to be in some residence back yard. One time I turned up there was a resident having a bath in the barray. I certainly recommend anyone visiting Banteay Chhmar to plan a little time to explore these marvellous outer structures.
- Silk weaving
In addition to the temples, theres a small silk weaving enterprise located in the Banteay Chhmar CBT grounds. The ladies work with fine silk for an NGO, and are always welcoming to us photographers.
- An Alternative to Angkor for sunrise
To the east of the main complex lies a baray with statues similar to that of Sra Srang. The difference here is there’s no light pollution and no tourists, an excellent place to start your day. The main plateau has recently been restored with some old and new sandstone structures. If your lucky, the water will be up giving a memorable reflective start to your day.
- Conclusion
If you enjoy solitude, this delightful temple setting is for you. Over night in one of the home stays adds to the experience and is recommended. You will not get western comforts as found in Siem Reap. Look upon this as a bonus and enjoy the experience. If you are up for photographic adventure, consider this as part of our multi day workshop while venturing through the Kingdom of wonder.